Monica Lee opened Beverly Soon Tofu in 1986, and over three decades it became one of Koreatown’s bedrocks for nourishment. But earlier this month, the tofu house announced on Instagram that it was closing permanently as of Sept. 20 — yet another loss in the restaurant community stemming from the COVID-19 catastrophe.
The last time I ate there was shortly after moving to Los Angeles, late in the fall of 2018. I’d enjoyed meals there previously when I was Eater’s national critic and traveled frequently to Southern California. The restaurant came to mind as I was settling in as a