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In Pittsville, the geographic middle of Wisconsin, the Rev. Wanda Veldman feels a sense of communion while cooking during the pandemic.

Little surprises — a teaspoon here, tablespoon there — widen her definition of culinary good taste. She adds fresh rosemary to chicken salad sandwich filling. Reason? “We had it on hand.” She mixes garlic powder and dried dill weed into egg salad (“inspired by my favorite cheese curds”), and smoked salt finds its way into pita-style